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Here Life is Fiesta
Marina Wister in Mexico

Fantasia e Fuga, Diego Rivera
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July 9, 2023

by Philip Gambone

Every time I visit a museum, no matter how keenly focused I am on what I want to see, I'm ambushed by some unexpected discovery. This was the case on a recent visit to the Davis Museum at Wellesley College. I'd gone there to see their pre-Columbian collection, which is quite fine for a small, college museum. But what totally enchanted me were not the Aztec ceramics, but an enigmatic painting by the great Mexican painter Diego Rivera.

It is a portrait of the American poet, Mary Channing "Marina" Wister, which Rivera painted in 1931. In the painting, titled "Fantasy and Fugue," Rivera posed Wister, who was also an accomplished pianist, with her hands poised to play. Curiously, the piano is missing. Equally puzzling is the fact that she is decked out in horseback riding clothes, and a horse is rearing up behind her. The Italian phrase "Fantasia e Fuga," which runs across a page of sheet music before her, references one of several compositions by Bach. 

In the early 1930s, Wister was living in Philadelphia, but the brightly colored walls in the background of the portrait suggest that Rivera painted her in his Mexico City studio during a visit she made there. When I discovered the Rivera portrait, I immediately wanted to know more about this woman who had inspired such a handsome, colorful, and mysterious painting.

Wister was born in 1882. She was the daughter of Owen Wister, an American writer and historian, best remembered as the author of The Virginian, one of the first Western novels.  In 1933, she married Andrew Michael Dasburg (1887-1979), an American modernist painter and an early champion of cubism, who had contributed to the famous 1913 Armory Show. Like his wife, Dasburg was attracted to Mexican culture.


Mariana Wister
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Six years after Rivera painted her portrait, Wister published a book of poems, to which she gave the same title as the Rivera painting. She dedicated her book: "Para mis amigos, D.R. and F.K. de R, como recuerdo," a reference to her good friendship with Rivera and his wife, Frida Kahlo.

Wister's book, Fantasy and Fugue, included 31 poems under the heading "From Mexico." Each poem highlighted the landscape, the towns, and the people of this country that she deeply loved. I found a review of the book printed in the New York Times on April 28, 1938. The anonymous reviewer noted that Wister's Mexican pieces were particularly strong: "Miss Wister appears to have looked about her with keenly observing eyes," adding that these poems were "vividly pictorial and colored."

I was even more fortunate to find a library copy of the book and read Wister's poems with delight and admiration. She was a polished poet. Her rhymes are as winsome as those of her contemporary, Dorothy Parker, her lyricism as lovely as Edna St. Vincent Millay's.  

That early reviewer was right: Wister's Mexican poems are among the best in the collection. In poem after poem, she celebrated the landscape of Mexico. Any reader today who has visited Mexico even a few times will recognize Wister's descriptions of the stands of corn and "pale magueys" that spread out like "arrested fountains;" the "stiff flat-fruited hieratic nopals;" the jungles and volcanos she called "fire-mountains." In one short poem, she described a cactus forest as "lurching gallow-trees." In another, she noted the "vacant heaving wastes" of the arid stretches she saw from a train.

I especially loved her vivid imagery of Mexican towns, "where every street wears a name of glory and death;" the plazas and bars, houses with "red-scalloped tiles" and "faded pink façades;" the churches with their "scintillant fanciful domes;" the shops "like midget theatres in a row." When she described the "garlanded masonry" of 18th century buildings, I immediately thought of the handsome stonework on the Casa de Canal off the Jardín or the House of the Inquisitor on Calle Cuadrante.

Indeed, Wister was alert to every aspect of Mexican life: the "drenching light" and "blinding air;" "the zopilote on awful wings;" the "reek of pulque;" the "flaming tongues of music."  Her sketches of Mexicans are never condescending. She loved the "antique dignity" of the people she encountered: women squatting by little stoves; the "gaudy horsemanship" of the charros; the china poblana decked out in "bracelet and pendant, necklace and bangle."

Her poem "Xochimilco," one of my favorites, celebrates the "floating festivals" of that famous park in Mexico City:

 

The canoes adrift
Secretly lean and swift
Glide through each leafy rift
Veiling them after;
Warm from the flower-lit boat
Sudden, unseen, remote
Linger and ring and float
Music and laughter.

 

Notwithstanding her love of the country, Wister was aware of Mexico's often-troubled history of "tyranny, greed, upheaval," the "great deeds and the brawls." Her poem "Daemons" notes the "baleful art / bred of terror" that was the bloody culture of the Aztecs. "La Sombra" is replete with images of candy skulls, toy hearses, and death, so often a "trifle" in this land where bliss and murder sometimes go hand in hand. Her poem "At the Customs," which notes how "resentful years are built into this wall," could have been written yesterday.

Wister was not without a sense of humor, which she occasionally aimed at "conscientious tourists." In one poem, "Promenade," she satirized the country club set, who "in behalf of exercise, pound out the last years of their lives" on tourist-package horseback parades.

In another poem, "Toys," she poked fun at the collection of stuff—a pottery piggy bank, a straw figurine—that tourists pick up, only to find, when they get home, that "they will not fit anywhere"—each one a "troubling chip of Mexico."  How many of us haven't experienced a similar predicament?

Wister's little book, almost 100 years old, deserves to be reprinted and rediscovered.  Each poem is a small gem.  One line best sums up for me the deep love affair she had with her adopted country: "Here," she wrote, "life is Fiesta, mesmerized by death."  Yes, I thought, that nicely sums up what so much of my Mexican experience is about.

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Philip Gambone is the author of five books, most recently As Far As I Can Tell: Finding My Father in World War II, which was named one of the Best Books of 2020 by the Boston Globe, available at the Biblioteca store and Amazon.

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