Magazine Home
Incident in the Mill Creek Watershed

Español
September 1, 2024

by Donald Patterson

I spent a great deal of my childhood, adolescence and Teen years in Colorado. In another age, before smartphones and computer games, it was the Rocky Mountains, with its canyons, valleys, arroyos, rivers and lakes that consumed most of my free time. Seemingly born with dirt under my fingernails and having a great time meant being outdoors, I would find a new adrenaline rush just by packing the required equipment. Always thinking about the possible trout, deer, elk, rapids, snow and slopes I might encounter. Back then nature was basically entertainment.

As an adult in Mexico I studied and worked from 2006 to 2019 in Watershed Ecology and Watershed Management. The focus, of course, was the Upper Rio Laja Watershed.

However, during those youthful years I picked up a lot of local and regional adjectives and nouns describing the environment where I spent my time. But the truth be told, I never recall hearing the word watershed until I was in my mid-twenties. It was not in the Rocky Mountains but rather the Blue Mountains of southeastern Washington and north eastern Oregon.

***

 
Try to imagine being violently buffeted about by a soundless explosion in a pitch black environment. Looking back on it, how I stayed in the saddle for those first few seconds seems astonishing.

Without warning the mare reared up and I was thrown back unexpectedly against the head of the elk tied to the back of my saddle. Then, as the mare leaped forward, I found my face in the mane on the back of her neck. In the dark I had no idea where the mare was going. I sensed we were traveling downhill. I tried to straighten up and pulled hard on the reins with both hands. I remember the smell of pine needles as my head and face were being slapped by branches.

Suddenly I was flying through the air. I hit the ground on my back and immediately the mare fell across my chest and legs before tumbling further down the slope. The last thing I remember was the sound of her thrashing around below me. Then I passed out.

It was dark and it was cold and wet and difficult for me to discern between conscious and unconsciousness. I could taste blood in my mouth and the first intake of air resulted in a severe pain in my chest. My initial thought was that I had broken ribs and they were puncturing my left lung.

From somewhere above me the voice of my hunting companion and friend, KJ, reached me, "Don! Don!"

The painful experience of my first conscious breath inhibited any immediate response. Unable to fill my lungs with air I thought, "God, don't let me die here in the dark"

"Don? Don? Where are you?"
 

by Donald Patterson

Winning the drawing for a bull elk license to hunt the Mill Creek watershed in the early 1960's was exciting. When the city of Walla Walla allowed a limited number of hunters into the watershed for the first time in 1954 it was rumored that almost all of them that filled their tags came out with a seven point bull elk. Since then hundreds of hunters apply each year but less than 100 of them are lucky enough to get a permit. These special 10 day permits gave the hunters access to an elk-infested area that was off-limits to any other public access for the rest of the year. Rules for hunting in the watershed were very strict. Only two men were allowed into the area for each permit. KJ had been lucky enough to win us both a permit and invited me to go along, not so much for my shooting skill but rather to help get the elk out if he got one. Nevertheless, I took along my rifle and scope in case I had a better opportunity at a shot than him. We had arranged the week before after scouting the edge of the watershed, for a couple of pack horses to get us up the watershed from the southeast.

The Watershed covers close to 16,000 acres in the Blue Mountains of southeastern Washington State and another 8,000 acres of northeastern Oregon. The boundaries were made early in the 20th century to protect the Walla Walla municipal water supply. The public was prohibited entry. Elk were introduced to the Blue Mountains in the mid 20's. 25 years later the elk had multiplied so much that their grazing habits were causing massive erosion problems on the steep open slopes and ridges of the watershed. In order to counter the problem officials in Walla Walla began to allow a limited number of hunters into the watershed.

The Watershed is not an easy place to hunt. No roads had ever been built within the boundaries and only a few trails were maintained for horse travel. Since no one is allowed within the watershed before the hunting season, scouting could only be done around the outside of the boundaries. KJ and I spent a weekend before the season looking through binoculars for elk and an entry point. The terrain was so steep that we decided to enter on the southwest and take horses up the watershed along Mill Creek.

The owner of the pack animals had told us that even he was not allowed to accompany us. One of the many regulations prohibited anyone from spending the night in the watershed. That meant that we had to leave the watershed each day before dark and return the next day if unable to fill one of our tags. I am sure that the packer secretly crossed his fingers so that he would have the opportunity to rent his horses for several days. Hoping to avoid the expense of horse rental we decided to hunt the day as long as we could. If we shot an elk in the late afternoon we planned to hoist the meat into a tree and return for it the next day.

The trail up the watershed was well-maintained from the packers' camp upstream. During the first hour or so the trail climbed up a ridge above and on the left side of Mill Creek. Then it began to descend once again into the basin. It was on this first descent near the top of the ridge that we crossed an old avalanche. Free of vegetation above and below the trail we felt exposed and precarious. The downhill side was steep. It was not the kind of environment where anyone wanted to have an accident.

I can't remember our reasons but neither KJ nor I wore watches that day. We discovered that fact when the horses stopped to drink at the first of twelve times the trail up the watershed crossed the creek. Being typical pack horses they were slow coming out of the barn but previous experience indicated that they would act like race horses on the return trip to the stable. But we both agreed that we had been riding for more than 3 hours by the time we started to hunt. Also, the weather made it difficult to correctly estimate time. It was cold when we started out early from the packer's camp. Nevertheless, the dawn was bright and held promise of a clear day. Halfway to our final destination the weather surprised us. The sky turned grey and the sun disappeared and it started to rain - sometime before noon.

When we got off the horses to hunt, KJ headed up a tributary on the right side of the creek and I took the left. I threaded my way across a heavily wooded ravine and scrambled up a steep barren slope to get a better view. I was in good shape back then. Nevertheless, a third of the way up, about 100 meters, I was winded and stopped to sit on a rock. It seemed like a good place to make a preliminary survey. It must have been around 3pm, and the rain had turned to sleet.

I was surprised when within seconds I saw the bull. He was across the tributary and just above the treetops of the forest growing along the bottom of the ravine. I did not put my rifle to my shoulder right away. First I estimated the distance the elk was from the bottom of the ravine. The rules in the watershed stated clearly that we could not shoot any animal within 50 yards of water. Once I was satisfied I took careful aim and fired. The elk did not bolt but kept walking at his original pace. I assumed from my higher position that I had missed. Yet the animal did not run, so I took another shot. I concentrated on not flinching in hopes that if I missed again I would see if my shot hit the hillside above or below him. Neither happened and still the elk did not run. He just kept walking. Within seconds a rifle shot came from somewhere above and behind me. I saw a puff of dirt rise several meters above the elk. As I was not waiting for someone else to get the bull I had taken two shots at, I took a deep breath, held it and fired again. This time I was sure of the shot because the elk dropped and rolled a few feet below the trail he had been traveling on. I continued to watch the animal as I carefully made my way down the hill toward the animal. When I arrived I discovered that I had hit him all three times. That explained why he did not run after my first shot. Now the dirty work began.

By the time I had gutted the animal KJ arrived. I wasn't aware of his presence until he spoke, "That's a nice elk."

I looked up at him and replied, "It is not the largest elk I have ever shot. Are you satisfied?"

KJ did not respond directly to my statement. Perhaps he was thinking of my exaggerating previous fishing and hunting stories. Instead he looked up to the sky and said, "Well it is getting dark fast so we had better hang him up in one of the trees over there to keep the predators away from him. We will come back for him in the morning."

By the time we finished hanging the elk it was dark and we needed flashlights to get back to the horses. The only remark he made about the five-pointer was, "That's a lot of meat."

One of the regulations of our hunting permit was a bull elk. We were not allowed to shoot a cow. So we decided, in the event that someone from the fish and game department might be at the packer's camp, to take the head and rack of the animal with us. Because of the extra weight of the head and rack, KJ took both the rifles on his horse to help balance the weight on both horses.

KJ and I were not only close friends but during the summer we worked together. KJ was a school teacher and I was a senior at Seattle Pacific University. KJ understood real estate and each summer he would buy a house on Queen Anne Hill and remodel it. It was KJ's strategy to buy the most run down house in a middle class neighborhood. Many times the work was very simple. We would put in wall to wall carpets, wood paneling on some of the walls and build kitchen cabinets. His choice of houses usually netted double his investment. By the third summer we were taking on three houses. I benefited, not only by a summer job, but several times I lived in the house we were renovating. However, it was our passion for hunting and fishing that brought us together. Plus the fact that we had learned from these experiences to trust one another. Our fishing was more successful than our hunting endeavors.

We fished for salmon in Puget Sound and for trout in the rivers and lakes of Washington State. Of course we had our favorite fishing holes that were close to Seattle and could be reached if we left the city in an hour or two. Usually by dusk we had our trout limit.

The Journey

 
"Don" Don?"

"I'm here." It was spoken softly because each breath was so painful.

"Don" Don?"

I realized that he could not hear my voice. I put together as much courage as I could muster and forced myself to inhale a larger quantity of air, "I think my leg is broken."

"Thank God!" was KJ's relieved response. "Don't try to move. I will climb down to you."
 

I don't recall how KJ got me back up to the trail. Perhaps it was a combination of the pain and cold that dulled my senses. He seemed relieved that my leg wasn't broken. When we arrived back at the main trail he wanted to know if I could walk. I took one step forward and the pain shot through my chest. I could not. In fact, standing still, I could only take shallow breaths so he helped me up on his horse. He handed me the reins and took the halter rope. Then from somewhere in the dark a short distance ahead of me he spoke and began to evaluate the problem at hand.

"I have both our rifles but all of the shells were in your saddle bags." He hesitated a minute before continuing, "You also had our flashlights and food. We do not have any camping gear so it is too cold to spend the night in the watershed even if the law allowed. I guess we have no other alternative so we are going to try and walk out in the dark. What do you think? Are you up to it?"

"Yea", I managed to exhale. I grimaced or perhaps even smiled and thought, "I can't taste fresh blood in my mouth." The thought of finding a doctor was foremost on my mind.

Understanding the urgency of our situation he began to move forward feeling the trail with his feet with each step. Because of the rain and sleet the trail was muddy and slippery. This helped him. I can even recall the sound of small puddles of water splashing beneath the horse's hooves that night. Our progress was slow. From time to time KJ would misinterpret the feel beneath his feet and end up taking us away from the main trail and onto an animal crossing. Fortunately, the pack horse was smarter than us and would balk. On these occasions, KJ would hand me the halter rope and begin circling around the horse in ever widening arches until once again he found the trail. Thankfully, the stubborn horse would oblige by moving along without any coaxing.

After several hours of silence between us, KJ, exhausted, declared, "Don, I don't know if I can go on. We need to rethink our strategy. Let's stop and try and start a fire."

He helped me down from the horse and then laid out an alternative that had obviously been on his mind for some time.

"We have crossed the creek 8 times. There are four more to go. The rain is raising the water in the creek and at the last crossing it was above my knees. If it continues to rain and sleet like this up and down the watershed I may not be able to wade across the creek further below."

He stopped talking at this point as if to allow me time to let what he had said sink in. After a moment he continued.

"If we can get a nice fire going I can take the horse and get to the packer camp faster. I will come back for you with help. The next three crossings across the creek are very close together. I calculate by riding and giving the pack horse her head it will take about an hour to get to the last crossing. From there it was less than two hours back to the camp."

He was right of course. There was a good chance that if we continued our slow progress that we might both die from exposure in the mountains that night. On the other hand, if I stayed behind without a fire, I would be dead before he returned.

Without further discussion KJ handed me his billfold and began groping around in the dark looking for dry wood. Meanwhile I removed all the paper from our billfolds and the saddle bags. We burned everything we had trying to start a fire. These included our family pictures, money, maps and even our hunting licenses and permit to be in the area. All my years of camping, hunting and fishing in the western states I never had a problem starting a fire. Yet, all we tried was to no avail. Everything was too wet and it was impossible in the pitch black night to find any dry wood.

Finally, resigned to the obvious, he said, "Let me help you back on the horse."

There it was. We were committed to making the final attempt.

I recall only bits and pieces of the next couple of hours. I do remember counting the creek crossings-especially the fourth and finally one. I knew it was deep as KJ struggled, stumbled and swore trying to cross it. He told me later when he came to see me in the hospital that it nearly froze his manhood. However, it was about thirty minutes after this crossing and ascending up the final ridge that an astonishing event happened.

Unable to breathe beyond shallow short static gulps of air I felt finished. KJ's pace was so slow that it seemed no progress was being made. With each step I sensed that it might be his last. The only thing I could hear was his panting and grunts as he struggled forward. Then I heard him say softly, as if speaking aloud to himself, "I'm done."

Several times during the last few hours the thought of dying had crossed my mind. I had even tried to picture how the process would occur. In each scenario I created in my head there was solace in the fact I was not alone. Suddenly, the sky lit up above the ridge in waves of green light. It exposed the treacherous rock slide that we had crossed earlier that morning. Stumbles here meant certain death. I had never seen the northern lights before and I later found out neither had my partner. We never spoke about it but our spirits changed. "Let's get across this fucking rockslide." was KJ's response. Not long after crossing the avalanche the waves of light stopped. Something remarkably had changed and KJ plodded forward. Once we reached the crest of the ridge it was only an hour downhill to the camp. We entered the camp at daybreak.

We both fell asleep in the packer's truck as he drove us to the hospital in Walla Walla, Washington. I did not see KJ again until later that night.

The Walla Walla Hospital

I spent the entire day in the hospital blowing colored water from one jar into another one. The doctor told me that it was necessary to open my lungs. I had come close to dying of hyperthermia. I had three broken ribs. Fortunately, they had not perforated a lung. As it turned out the blood I tasted in my mouth had come from my nose. The doctor informed me that he would come back the next morning to take out the small pebbles and bark embedded in my forehead and nose. KJ showed up during the night and told me that he needed to get back to Seattle in order not to miss school the next day – Monday. We discussed my situation and I told him I would rather travel back to Seattle with him. He agreed as long as the doctor approved. While we waited for the doctor to arrive we talked about what had happened to him during that day.

He told me that he had returned with the packer to the camp and from there they rode back to the elk and packed it out. The mare was scratched up but miraculously had not broken her legs. The packer had found the tracks of a coyote crossing about where the mare had spooked and jumped down the steep bank toward the creek.

The doctor was not keen on me leaving the hospital in my condition but when I insisted he made me sign a release form so the nether he or the hospital could be accountable if further complications occurred. Before leaving, he sprayed my chest with something very cold which was almost as painful as my three broken ribs. He then bound my chest up tightly with an ace bandage and I left the hospital with KJ.
KJ's hunting vehicle was an older model Buick so there was plenty of room in the back seat for me to lie down. Before we left Walla Walla KJ pulled into a gas station for the two hour journey to Yakima. He had called his father from the hospital and his father was flying into Yakima to meet us.

I was drowsy, but still not asleep when I heard the gas station attendant.

 
"Mr.?"

Mr. Here is your credit card.

Mr.?
 

I rose up in the back seat and found my friend asleep and slumped over the steering wheel in complete fatigue. He was snoring. I climbed out of the car, took the credit card from the attendant, pushed KJ over to the passenger side and drove to Yakima.

I was, mentally, a 23 year old environmental adolescent at the time. Some will find it ironic that my first environmental awareness morphed from "awareness" to a desire to act was provoked by a hunting trip. However you feel, it was my first introduction to the concept of a watershed and learning about its physical and biological structure. My hat is off to the community of Walla Walla, Washington for having the foresight 100 years ago to protect their water. Today Walla Walla gets 90% of their municipal water from this drainage. And in the 60 years since I hunted elk in this watershed, they have also tackled and resolved many obstacles protecting the area other than elk overgrazing.

I was pleased to read that now they have programs dealing with flooding and forest fire controls. And another bit of good news for an old hunter and fisherman, they are cleaning up and rehabilitating Mill Creek for the local migration of Salmon and Steelhead. It was also pleasing to note that Walla Walla today counts on support from various environmental organizations from Idaho and Oregon that have programs for other wilderness areas adjacent to the Watershed.

**************

Donald Patterson: As an adult in Mexico I studied and worked from 2006 to 2019 in Watershed Ecology (the science) and Watershed Management (application of the science). The focus, of course, was our Upper Rio Laja Watershed.

**************
*****

Please contribute to Lokkal,
SMA's online collective:

***

Discover Lokkal:
Watch the two-minute video below.
Then, just below that, scroll down SMA's Community Wall.
Mission

Wall


Visit SMA's Social Network

Contact / Contactar

Subscribe / Suscribete  
If you receive San Miguel Events newsletter,
then you are already on our mailing list.    
Click ads

Contact / Contactar


copyright 2024