Thornton Dial
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by Kenni Edwardson

If visiting the galleries in New York City isn't on your itinerary this week or if congestion pricing might not be your thing — take a breath. You can experience an afternoon of world class art here in San Miguel and still enjoy a rooftop sunset with friends and family at the end of the day.

Skot Foreman Gallery

Ok — so you missed the mind-blowing Thornton Dial exhibition at Hauser & Wirth in Chelsea that closed last week. No worries. Skot Foreman Gallery at La Fabrica la Aurora has you covered... and then some.

For starters, the gallery is currently showing an entire wall of world class Dial drawings. I counted nine in all. Without a doubt, it is a tour de force exhibition worthy of your time — beautiful colors and soft images, all of it a timeless narrative from one of the art world's low key brilliant comets.

But wait. There's more. If you can't visit the Whitney Museum to see the nine Purvis Young paintings on display there in two separate exhibitions — one being the blockbuster Alvin Ailey show — you're in luck. Skot Foreman Gallery has mounted their own exhibition of Young, showing at least as many works from the artist's most creative period. It is one hundred percent not to be missed.

As if you needed more incentive to visit, the gallery also maintains an intimately scaled Peter Max gallery, painted a gentle pink from floor to ceiling, that brings the 60's and 70's psychedelic vibe full force. And La Gran Manzana flow rolls on. There are two erotic works by John Lennon, the adopted rock 'n' roll son of The City, from his controversial Bag One series.

And while it feels like New York and it feels like Miami — it also feels like Mexico. The gallery is showing two Coronel's; also an abstract Siqueiros painting from another planet. And if you don't know the works of Alejandro Santiago yet, you have to take a look. If any artist is having a moment, it's him. The paintings are incredible. The prints are simply stunning.

This brings us to our next stop for the afternoon. The detailed history is an article in its own right, but the thing is that Alejandro Santiago passed away before his time, at 49—years-old. Before he did, Santiago studied with and was influenced by Francisco Toledo and if that doesn't catch your attention, I'll let the gallery bring you up to speed with another gallery visit, this time in el Centro.

Museo Casa de Canal

Onwards then to the Mexican master x 100 icon Francisco Toledo show at Casa de Cultura Banamex on Canal, where we'll find an intimate, simple show of kites and wildlife graphics — vintage late-career Toledo. The papalotes are typical Mexican kites made from various materials, such as dry branches or natural fabrics. Originally from Oaxaca, Toledo's creations brim with images from his childhood, all showcasing the Nahuatl belief that the destiny of every human being is closely linked to that of an Aztec spirit that has taken the form of an animal. The installation is lovely as well. With kites suspended from the ceiling, there is a playfulness to the exhibition. So, bring the kids. One room of the show is actually a children's library. They'll enjoy that, too. On we go.

La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel

Towards our last stop of the day, we step outside, turn the corner onto Canal and walk to the Parroquia. There we spend some time in the presence of two breathtaking murals by Federico Cantú Garza, murals that unfortunately bear the scarred legacy of another man's misguided erasure. The murals are located on the left-hand side of the cathedral in a large alcove close to the main altar — in architectural terms, on the walls of the east transept.

Cantú was a prolific, visionary Mexican artist whose talents spanned painting, engraving, drawing, sculpture, and muralism.

He briefly studied fresco techniques with Diego Rivera before heading to Paris, where he immersed himself in the avant-garde scene. He formed connections with luminaries such as Pablo Picasso, André Breton, Antonin Artaud, and César Vallejo, whose influence imbued his work with the intellectual and bohemian spirit of 1920s Paris.

In 1943, amidst the turmoil of World War II, Cantú sought tranquility in San Miguel de Allende. He taught fresco techniques and was commissioned by his friend, McKinley Helm, an art collector and promoter of Mexican talent, to create murals for the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel. The resulting works depicted the Last Supper and the Crucifixion of Christ.

However, the murals sparked controversy. Some prominent San Miguel residents objected to Cantú's use of local townspeople as models. The parish priest, José Mercadillo, attempted to restore the murals himself, covering them with lime and sand and ultimately damaging the original works. Though the Vatican intervened to prevent their complete destruction, the murals remain disfigured to this day. Cantú's grandson, Adolfo Cantú Elizarrará, has long advocated for their restoration, though his efforts have yet to bear fruit.

Following the San Miguel incident, Cantú focused on creating murals for public and private spaces. While part of the Mexican muralism movement, his style diverged from the nationalistic and socialist themes of his contemporaries. Instead, he embraced classical forms, blending mythology with modern symbolism, often incorporating religious themes—a rarity among muralists of his era. His work is celebrated internationally, with exhibitions at prestigious venues like the Tate Gallery in London, the Museum of Modern Art in New York, and the Vatican Museums.

Despite being described by art critic Raquel Tibol as "The Great Forgotten One," Cantú received numerous accolades during and after his lifetime. His works, including the damaged yet enduring murals at the Parroquia, stand as a testament to his creativity and resilience. It's worth a visit. Even damaged, it remains a stellar creative accomplishment.

That's it. Thanks for tagging along. I hope you enjoyed our afternoon together. Don't forget to sign up for the next tour. Nos vemos.

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Kenni Edwardson, a resident of San Miguel for three years, has lived most of his life as close to latitude 21 degrees north in as many locations as possible - enjoying all the beautiful souls, chocolate, macadamia nuts, coffee, plumeria and hibiscus flowers the planet can offer.

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