El Pescado Málaga - at Trino's
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by Brenda Sexton

Ruth Reichl was inspiring. In addition to her charm, humility, and humor, what most impressed me were her thoughts on what truly makes a restaurant special. At her talk during the San Miguel Writers' Conference in mid-February, she shared a perspective that resonated deeply: It's not just about the food—it's the atmosphere, the way the staff makes you feel, the overall magic of the experience.

With that in mind, I set out to find San Miguel's hidden culinary gems —restaurants that embody this philosophy, where food, ambiance, and hospitality come together to create something truly memorable.

I'm also honored to be writing about restaurants for Lokkal, San Miguel's comprehensive webzine. My qualifications? I certainly have a deep appreciation for food. A long time ago, in what feels like another lifetime, I found myself working as a cook in France at a Maharishi Mahesh Yogi chateau. Outrageously unqualified, I had never so much as boiled an egg. My mother, sensing my culinary distress, mailed me a copy of The Joy of Cooking, which became my lifeline. Thankfully, the French believe cooking is an art form, and with the help of my talented assistant, Muriel, I learned not just to cook but to appreciate the soul of a great meal.

With that same spirit of discovery, I present three of my favorite hidden gems in San Miguel places you may have heard of but perhaps haven't yet fully explored. What do they all have in common?

1. Perfectly prepared, delicious food
2. Beautiful plating and presentation
3. Service that embraces the unhurried rhythm of San Miguel
4. An atmosphere that creates a personal connection
5. And, most importantly, incredible value

JJ's outdoor kitchen
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Refugio Norte 1, San Antonio
Reservations: 415-117-6322

At the top of this list is Mesa Marrakesh, a tiny culinary treasure hidden in a garage in the heart of San Antonio. Here, JJ Castaneda, a master of Middle Eastern cuisine, works his magic.

From what I've heard, JJ and Donnie Masterton (chef-owner of The Restaurant) have known each other for decades. Donnie convinced JJ to move to San Miguel and to help open Fatima about five years ago. Both chefs ultimately parted ways with that project, and about a year ago, JJ finally opened his own space to the delight of his many loyal fans and followers.

Homemade pita bread and the best chicken livers ever

Happy diners, with the author second from left
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And what a space it is! You are quite literally dining inside the kitchen— a small, intimate garage-turned-restaurant with just eight tables. The experience is casual, yet the food is nothing short of extraordinary. From silky babaganoush to perfectly spiced kebabs, every dish is a masterpiece.

My personal favorite? Grilled chicken livers glazed with marmalade and caramelized onions—-rich, flavorful, and simply the best I've had anywhere. And the prices? Remarkably reasonable. You can enjoy a feast for two, cocktails included, for under $800 pesos. Just be mindful not to over-order his homemade pita bread as it disappears quickly, and the entrees are more filling than they appear.

Reservations are a must.

What's for dessert?

Los Panuchos - spicy, flavorful, marinated pork with pickle domino on a schmear of tasty black beans
*

415-124-9129
Thursday-Sunday (hours vary)
(Down a dirt road past El Secreto, 6 minutes from La Comer, check online for a map)

Tucked away down a dusty dirt road past the entrance to El Secreto, Trino's feels like stepping back in time, visiting a friend's countryside home.

Pollo Cordón Blue
*

I've sat outside each time I've visited, where the rustic setting makes you feel miles away from the city. There's also indoor seating in what appears to be a small bed and breakfast. The menu is handwritten on a chalkboard and features about 10 traditional dishes, all requiring a bit of explanation.

Menu, great pricing

Muslo Sabana - chicken thigh stuffed with bacon, cheese and spinach
*

When four of us visited for an early dinner, we were the only guests at 5pm, dining al fresco with our two dogs happily lounging at our feet. The food? Exceptional. We each ordered something different:

Lightly battered fried fish fillets
Chicken enchiladas
Pulled pork tacos with pickled onions
Cordon bleu chicken stuffed with blue cheese and ham

We all swore we had picked the best dish on the menu. Every bite was infused with heart and tradition, made from cherished family recipes. The setting was serene, the service warm, and the gentle live music only added to the charm.

At an average of $200 pesos per exquisite dish, Trino's is a true hidden gem—-a place where food, family, and tradition come together effortlessly.

Lovely outdoor setting

Owner Oscar Vasquez

Chilaquiles at $172 pesos
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Prolongacion de Pila Seca 9 (formerly LifePath Center)
552-726-2579

And now, for something completely different: Martez, a sophisticated, elegant, and beautifully designed space that feels more like an art gallery than a cafe.

Located in the former LifePath Center, this stunning restaurant is owned by a family from Mexico City who have poured their hearts into every detail. I've visited twice for a late breakfast, and both times, I was full and satisfied until dinner.

The best Avo Toast in town
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Very elegant
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My go-to dish? Avocado toast with poached eggs, but this is no ordinary avo toast. Here, it arrives as a breathtaking plate of color and texture a croissant, split in half, topped with perfectly cooked poached eggs, surrounded by delicate slices of avocado, fresh greens tartly dressed with a hidden abundance of green apple slices. Every bite is a balance of richness and freshness, and at $172 pesos, it's an absolute steal.

Amuse my bouche
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And let's talk about the amuse-bouche —- a freshly made black tortilla topped with dollops of creamy black ash onion, and delicate tuna, artfully garnished with flowering coriander. It's an unexpected delight and a perfect introduction to the level of care that goes into each dish.

Very attractive homemade breads and pastries
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Martez is a place that impresses on every level — from the homemade sourdough breads to the impeccable plating and warm service. If you're looking for a magical way to start your day in San Miguel, this is it.

Subdued and elegant

San Miguel is filled with remarkable restaurants, but the ones that truly stand out are the ones that make you feel something —- where the food, the setting, and the experience stay with you long after the last bite.

These three hidden gems Mesa Marrakesh, Trino's, and Martez each offer something unique, yet they share that elusive quality Ruth Reichl spoke about: a sense of magic.

So go, explore, and discover your own hidden gems. You never know where your next unforgettable meal might be waiting. I'd love to hear about your discoveries!

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Brenda Sexton and her husband, Greg Nye, have been residents of San Miguel for over 12 years. She is a board member Equinoterapia SMA, and was a founding board member of PAWS Chicago, a thriving no kill animal shelter. They are very active members of the Malanquin Golf Club and The Croquet Club of San Miguel.

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